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few years ago I fostered a deaf collie puppy (the one in the
picture). Because “no” would not work, I had to do something else
to stop him from getting in trouble. After a few days I noticed that
I almost completely stopped talking to my dogs. And guess what? The
life was normal as always, I was communicating in different ways with
them. It was a game changing experience. Although I'm pretty quiet
anyway, I became more attentive to what they were doing and would
rather get up than talk to them. A few times I caught myself walking
up to my own perfectly (albeit selectively) hearing dogs to interrupt
what they were doing instead of just using my voice. After the puppy
found his forever home everything went slowly back to normal but I
still remember this experience and still think about it a lot. Most
dog owners would benefit from spending a while with a deaf dog.
Please understand that I do not advocate not talking to your dog,
believe me, nobody chats up their dogs more than a single, female dog
trainer. I literally have entire conversations with them on a regular
basis, but “no!!!” has no place in these chats.
So
you may have already noticed some tips in what I wrote before, on
what to do instead of saying “No”. Well, my preferred method is
to interrupt – redirect. Sometimes, if safe to do it, I simply
ignore the behaviour completely, all the time watching for something
to reinforce. If I choose to interrupt, there are things to consider.
Shouting “No” is also an interruption but we already discussed
why we don't want to use it. In many situations I will say my dog's
name, which will cause him to look at me, and then I tell him what
I'd rather he was doing. So, let's say Chester is starting to eye
another dog (he is a Border Collie, after all). I could shout “No!!”
but I normally say: Chester! - probably a few times, as he gets very
unresponsive at these times - and when he looks back, I call him to
me, ask him to lie down and stay. He gets a stream of cues that he
knows very well and can perform even with distractions, and this is
when it gets a bit hard for some dog owners. I teach my dogs all
these behaviours first. If they don't know them, they should be on
leash or under other means of control. It is far easier to yell “no”
than to actually put effort into teaching the dog what you mean by
all the other cues. But it's a fair and kind thing to do. Always,
always redirect with a well known cue.
The
way to interrupt something can take different forms. There are times
I touch my dogs to get their attention. And then redirect. Put that
attention elsewhere. This is what I was doing when the deaf puppy
lived with us. No words, only gentle touch or a tap or lifting him
up and placing somewhere else. But that's for everyday living, and
when you have already taught the replacement behaviours. If you take
your dog to classes, they should teach you pretty much everything you
need. However, chances are you'll be encouraged to say “eh-eh”
whenever your dog makes a mistake. This may be called a No Reward
Marker (NRM), especially if you use a clicker (or the word “yes”)
to mark the correct response. You say “sit”, but your dog looks
at another dog and takes a step towards him. “No!!!!”
(punishment). Or you say “stay”, take a few steps back and your
dog gets up. “Eh-eh!!!” (NRM). And then “Stay!” again. There
are a few problems with this approach as mentioned in part one of
this article.
When
I teach my dog a new behaviour I really want it to be a fun event. I
want him to be engaged and curious, and try new things without any
fear of failure. I want him to feel like a superstar and have lots of
successful trials. “No”and “eh-eh” bring an element of
uncertainty to training sessions. If he tries and makes a mistake he
will be punished by my sharp voice. I don't want it to happen. I have
two dogs of herding breeds and they are super sensitive to my moods.
My collie Chester shuts down when I say anything negative. I used
“No” and “Eh-eh” with him when he was younger and I'm still
paying for that. My malinois has been trained without many negatives
and is an entirely different dog. As a puppy he had no interest in
training whatsoever and would frequently walk away and go to sleep in
the middle of a training session. It took a huge effort to increase
his motivation and now he loves it but he is still a sensitive dog
and I have to be careful how I respond to his mistakes.
So
what do I do instead? I use two methods that I took from other
trainers. One is called the Least Reinforcing Scenario, and was first
used and popularised by Ken Ramirez (I mentioned him in part one). In
essence, when the dog makes a mistake, I pause the training for a
moment and then ask for some other behaviour (I sometimes ask for the
same one again, just giving him a second chance). When I get a
correct response I reinforce it with either food, toy or interaction.
Then I may ask for that previous behaviour again, to see if this time
the dog does it. It's very neutral, non punishing, and does not cause
frustration in the dog. The only thing that happens is that he
doesn't get any reaction, no words, no treat, nothing. For a period
of let's say 2 seconds. Then the life goes back to normal.
The
other method is called Cheerful Interrupter and comes from Denise
Fenzi, one of my favourite trainers at the moment. The imperative
word is cheerful, not gruff, not frustrated, not impatient.
Cheerful. I say something silly, walk towards my dog, pat him on the
back, tell him he is a very clever boy but this time there will be no
treat, or toy. And we try again. The dog is happy, I'm happy, the
training progresses quickly. One variation to this is to give the dog
a low value reward, as a consolation, since he tried at all, but to
keep the very good stuff for the correct responses.
Hope
this article gave you some ideas on training. There is always a way
to improve the situation for our dogs and I think we should always
try our best.
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